Cannon in the Gun Garden beside the medieval Ypres Tower in Rye

Hidden corners worth knowing

The places day trippers drive straight past, and the reason our guests so often come back out of season. None of these are secrets exactly. They are just quieter, stranger and better than the obvious stops.

A fort you can only reach on foot, a church alone in a sheep field, wine cellars under a town, a drowned forest that appears twice a day. Everything here is within forty minutes of the cottage and most of it costs nothing.

Who it suits

Photographers, walkers, history lovers, anyone on a second or third visit who has done Rye and the beach, and anyone who prefers a place to themselves. Several of these are lovely in poor weather.

Getting there
Most need a car or a bike. Camber Castle and the Rye Harbour memorial are walk-in from Rye Harbour village. Fairfield Church and Dungeness are exposed and can be bitter in a wind, so bring layers.
Cost
Camber Castle exterior, Fairfield Church, the Gun Garden, the Mary Stanford memorial, Pett Level and Dungeness shingle are all free. Winchelsea cellars, the Old Lighthouse, Smallhythe and Great Dixter charge admission.
Tides
The Pett Level sunken forest only shows at low tide. Check the tables before you set off. BBC tide tables
Maps
OS Explorer 125 covers everything here. Signal is poor on the marsh, so download maps first.

Across the levels

Camber Castle

5 milesWalk-in onlyFree exterior circuit

Henry VIII’s squat artillery fort of 1539, stranded a mile inland when the sea retreated and now standing alone among grazing sheep. There is no road, so you earn it on foot across the levels from Rye or Rye Harbour, which is exactly why it feels so special. The exterior circuit is free and open all year. Occasional guided interior tours run in season.

The Mary Stanford lifeboat house

Rye HarbourFreeQuietly moving

At the end of the track from Rye Harbour village stands the old lifeboat house, kept as a memorial to the seventeen crew of the Mary Stanford lost in 1928, all of them from this one small village. It is a quiet, sobering place, and the walk out to it along the flat reserve track is a good one.

Rye Harbour’s beach chapel and black huts

On the reserveFreePhotographers

The red-roofed chapel and the black-timbered huts on the shingle are the most photographed corner of the reserve, and best in low winter light with nobody else about. Over 4,000 species have been recorded on the reserve, so borrow binoculars at the Discovery Centre.

Aerial view of Camber Castle, Henry VIII’s artillery fort, standing alone in the marsh near Rye
Camber Castle from the air. No road, no shop, no crowd. Just sheep and a Tudor fort.

On the marsh

Fairfield Church

Romney Marsh, about 20 minutesFreeDawn and dusk

St Thomas à Becket at Fairfield stands utterly alone in a sheep field, reached by its own causeway path. It looks like something from a dream and is a favourite with photographers at first and last light. If it is locked, a sign directs you to where the key is kept nearby. Pure marsh magic.

The Royal Military Canal

Rye towards AppledoreFreeSheltered on windy days

Built to stop Napoleon and now a serene green corridor along the marsh edge, with herons for company and almost nobody on the towpath. The stretch out towards Appledore is the quietest.

Under a town

Winchelsea’s medieval wine cellars

7 milesGuided tours on set datesBook ahead

England’s smallest town sits on a grid laid out for Edward I, and beneath it lie more than thirty medieval vaulted cellars built for the wine trade with Gascony. Guided tours run on published dates through the year and are astonishing. Above ground, find Spike Milligan’s headstone in the churchyard. It reads “I told you I was ill”, in Gaelic.

The Gun Garden, Rye

4 milesFreePicnic spot

Behind the Ypres Tower, the little Gun Garden gives a free view over the harbour and the marsh that most visitors never find. Good for a picnic, and a fine place to watch the weather come in off Rye Bay.

On the shingle

Prospect Cottage and the Dungeness shacks

9 milesFree to wanderPrivate home

Derek Jarman’s black and yellow fisherman’s cottage with its famous driftwood garden sits on the shingle at Dungeness. It remains a private home, so admire it from the path. Then drift between the shacks, boats and sea kale, climb the Old Lighthouse for the view, and eat fish from a hut. Every direction is a photograph.

The sunken forest at Pett Level

About 20 minutesLow tide onlyWellies

At low water the beach at Pett Level and towards Fairlight uncovers rock pools and the blackened stumps of a prehistoric forest drowned thousands of years ago. Check the tide, wear wellies, and give yourself time to get back before the water does.

Seasonal secrets

In autumn, tens of thousands of starlings gather over the reedbeds at Rye Harbour and Dungeness before roosting. Locations move year to year, so ask at the Discovery Centre. In February, Rye Bay Scallop Week fills every restaurant in town with one perfect ingredient. And from October to April the beach at Camber is often yours alone at dawn, which is the best hidden corner of all.

Official information

Beachside Cottage · Camber Sands

Come back out of season

The quiet months are when this coast is at its best. Beachside Cottage is a short walk from an empty beach and ten minutes from all of the above.

Beachside Cottage · Camber Sands

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